Big Balls on Waterloo Crescent
A nice relaxing Sunday, with good weather in the afternoon. We headed into Dover, took a stroll along the seafront, and then went for coffee and a spot of lunch at the Dover Marina Hotel & Spa. I took a few pictures along the promenade and found a pair of sculptures – large stone balls on the pavement – which made for some interesting images.
Dover, a gateway town through the ages, has a rich and eventful history spanning millennia. While evidence of the earliest inhabitants remains elusive due to rising sea levels, archaeological finds suggest late Stone Age farmers arrived around 6,000 years ago, bringing agriculture and domesticated animals across the channel. The well-preserved Bronze Age Boat, unearthed in 1991, stands as a testament to Dover's early maritime connections.
The Roman invasion in 55 BC marked a turning point. Recognizing Dover's strategic location, the Romans established a thriving port town named Dubris. This settlement, encompassing an area of at least five hectares, featured a sizeable harbour flanked by lighthouses and forts, one of which housed the Classis Britannica, the Roman navy in Britain.
Following the Roman withdrawal in the 5th century, Germanic tribes settled in Kent, transforming Dover (then known as Dofras) into a key settlement within the Anglo-Saxon kingdom. By the 10th century, Anglo-Saxon Dover prospered with its own mint and established trade links across the channel.
The Norman Conquest in 1066 further emphasized Dover's significance. William the Conqueror recognized its vital role as a gateway to France and seized the town, rebuilding much of the Saxon infrastructure. Dover Castle, a formidable fortification, underwent significant improvements, culminating in the completion of the central keep and bailey by 1190. Throughout the medieval period, Dover faced numerous French attacks, most notably the near-successful siege of 1216 and the devastating raid of 1295.
The 11th century also saw the formation of the Cinque Ports, a confederation of five coastal towns, including Dover, responsible for providing ships and men to the king. This alliance granted Dover significant privileges that fueled its growth as a port.
The Tudor and Stuart monarchs took a keen interest in Dover. Recognizing the harbour's vulnerability to silting, Henry VIII and Elizabeth I financed extensive repairs and expansions. Additionally, Henry VIII bolstered Dover's defences. During the Civil War, Dover sided against Charles I but enthusiastically welcomed the return of his son, Charles II, in 1660.
The 18th and 19th centuries saw Dover transformed into a heavily fortified garrison town in anticipation of French invasion. Earthen batteries were constructed along the seafront and Western Heights to complement the ageing castle's defences. In the early 19th century, with the threat of Napoleonic invasion looming large, a massive program of defensive works commenced, resulting in the creation of two forts and deep ditches on the Western Heights. The unique Grand Shaft, a 140-foot triple staircase, provided access to these forts from the town below.
The 19th century witnessed a period of immense change for Dover. The arrival of the railways, coupled with the large-scale redevelopment of the harbour, the burgeoning cross-channel traffic, and the expansion of local industries, led to a dramatic population surge – a 600% increase between 1801 and 1901. Efforts were also made to develop Dover as a seaside resort, with the construction of a pier, ice rink, bathing machines, and elegant seafront crescents.
During World War I, Dover became a crucial military centre. Vast numbers of troops embarked from Dover for France, while the harbour served as the base for the Dover Patrol, a fleet tasked with safeguarding Britain's control of the Channel. The town endured the first aerial bombardment on English soil on Christmas Eve 1914 and faced regular shelling and bombing raids throughout the war, earning it the nickname "Fortress Dover."
The interwar period witnessed a rise in cross-channel traffic with the introduction of luxury services like the "Golden Arrow" and "Night Ferry." World War II once again thrust Dover into the spotlight. In 1940, over 200,000 troops evacuated from Dunkirk passed through Dover, with Vice Admiral Sir Bertram Ramsay coordinating the operation from tunnels beneath the castle. The town endured relentless attacks, with over 3,000 alerts and the loss of 216 civilian lives. Dover and its iconic White Cliffs became a symbol of wartime resilience.
Post-war reconstruction efforts, however, resulted in the demolition of many historic buildings to make way for modern infrastructure and increased traffic flow. Despite the Channel Tunnel's opening, Dover's port continues to thrive with modern ferries, hovercraft, and catamarans catering to a growing passenger and cruise ship market.
As Dover embarks on the redevelopment of its historic St. James area, the town seems poised for a renaissance. With its rich tapestry of history woven over millennia, Dover is well-equipped to face the challenges of the future, drawing upon its legacy as a vital gateway between Britain and the continent.
