Bullseye & Adobo
Thursday. Sunny again, but fortunately a lot cooler than it had been earlier in the week. It was a busy morning session at work that stretched into the afternoon, and I got away later than I’d hoped. Raff and I cooked up dinner again; tonight, it was a Gousto recipe: Filipino chicken adobo with rice and tenderstem broccoli. The adobo was delicious—it’s not something I’ve tried before, so I looked up the lore surrounding the dish…
Filipino adobo embodies a significant culinary tradition with deep historical roots. Its origins lie in the pre-colonial era, where indigenous communities developed a method of preserving meat using vinegar and salt, a practical necessity within the tropical climate where food spoilage occurred rapidly. This preservation technique significantly predates Spanish influence. The term "adobo" itself, however, entered the culinary lexicon through Spanish missionary Pedro de San Buenaventura in 1613, deriving from the Spanish word "adobar", meaning to marinate.
The dish evolved distinctly from its Spanish namesake. Whereas Spanish adobo typically denotes a marinade or seasoning paste, Filipino adobo is transformed into a complete braised dish. Meat is slowly cooked until tender within its own aromatic sauce. The arrival of Chinese traders in the 9th century introduced soy sauce to the islands. This ingredient gradually replaced salt in numerous adobo preparations, adding depth and umami to the foundational tang of vinegar.
Adobo's defining characteristic is its remarkable adaptability. Culinary observers note the potential for variations exceeding the number of islands in the archipelago, implying well over 7,640 distinct interpretations. This diversity reflects the resourcefulness of Filipino cooks, who have consistently adapted the core vinegar-and-protein foundation to incorporate local ingredients and regional tastes.
Regional differences highlight this creativity effectively. In the Bicol region, the addition of coconut milk creates "adobong sa gata", resulting in a rich, creamy sauce that balances the inherent tang. Cavite province incorporates turmeric to produce "adobong dilaw", lending a golden colour and an earthy flavour profile. More unconventional versions exist, utilising ingredients such as crocodile, snake, or squid, demonstrating the technique's application beyond traditional chicken and pork. Further distinctions arise between "wet" and "dry" styles. Traditional adobo maintains a sauce, while "pinatuyong adobo" from Bukidnon province involves completely reducing the liquid, creating a concentrated, shelf-stable product suitable for travel. Conversely, "adobong puti" omits soy sauce entirely, relying solely on vinegar, salt, and aromatics for its flavour.
Adobo's influence extends internationally as Filipino cuisine gains wider recognition. The dish has featured on programmes like "Top Chef" and received commendation from global chefs and food critics. In London, home to Europe's largest Filipino population, estimated at approximately 350,000 people, numerous restaurants and supper clubs actively celebrate this culinary tradition.
The cultural significance of adobo within the Philippines is profound. Frequently regarded as the unofficial national dish, it functions as a symbol of Filipino identity and ingenuity. It reflects the country's complex colonial past while retaining its indigenous roots, embodying a spirit of resilience and adaptation. Many Filipino families treat their specific adobo recipes as treasured heirlooms, passing variations down through generations, each often considering their version definitive. This cultural weight has fostered initiatives described by some as "adobo diplomacy" – the strategic promotion of Filipino cuisine as a form of cultural soft power. Advocates argue that adobo and other Filipino dishes merit greater international recognition, particularly due to their distinctive balance of sweet, sour, salty, and umami flavours, which sets them apart within Southeast Asian cuisine.
